Sunday, February 26, 2012

Stevens Pow Pow

Stevens Pow

Winter! Finally! Yesterday, Cait and I spent the day at Stevens Pass skiing unbelievably good snow. It was light, deep, and oh so sweet!

Here's to many more days of skiing!

Riley

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Fireman?

Stache

Caitlin and I went to REI earlier this afternoon. In line, I let a woman cut in front me because she was in a hurry. As she made her way up to the register she paused, turned, and asked, "are you a fireman?" Her reasoning? The mustache.

A special moment I couldn't help but share...

Riley

Disclaimer: This blog will not solely revolve around my mustache.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

a story for tomorrow

a story for tomorrow. from gnarly bay productions, Inc. on Vimeo.


I came across this video just as we were packing up to leave South America and thought it was really well done.

Enjoy!

Riley

Monday, February 20, 2012

It's Back...

Mustache
It may be a slight bit premature, but it's back baby... The mustache is back!

Mustache March is an annual event where men from around the world grow mustaches for joviality and to raise money for various charities. As I understand it, the idea stems from the Air Force and began as a good-natured protest against the facial hair regulations under which cadets have been forced to abide.

How many years have I partaken? I honestly can't recall. But, I love it. It's ridiculous, it's hilarious, and it's camaraderie.

For more info to grow, show and connect with your fellow Mo's:

Mustache March: Just Grow It


Riley

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Cloudveil Mountain Ambassador

cloudveil3

I've been a Cloudveil Mountain Ambassador for the last three years. It is a program that most outdoor companies will create to promote their products in the guiding/outdoor world for both visibility and critiques. As a part of the program I write posts for the Cloudveil blog, Mountain Murmur. Here is a link to the last one that I wrote...

Mountain Murmur: Notes from the field

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Los Pingüinos!

The Magallanes region at the southern tip of Chile is home to one of the largest penguin colonies in South America. Located 35 kilometers from Punta Arenas, in the middle of the Strait of Magellan, Magdalena Island plays host to 300,000 Magellanic penguins.

Of course we went!

After disembarking our vessel, the Melinka, an 800 meter trail meanders through penguin nesting sites (holes in the ground) to the middle of the island where a former lighthouse resides. Along the way, it's a literal penguin free-for-all. Combine that, with our excitement, and a camera and what do you get? These!

Isla
Isla Magdalena.

Muchos Pingüinos
Penguins... Everywhere!

Magallanes!
Bienvenido to you! Let's go see some penguins!

Qué Pasa
¿Qué pasa amigo?


Hola Kimosabe.

Sapiens
Honorary penguins who closely resemble...

Pareja
Actual penguins!

Jefe
Yo soy el jefe!

As our final hours in South America rapidly vanish, I'm realizing just how much fun I've had down here. And, I'd be blatantly lying if I said I wasn't going to miss it all. The people, the scenery, the language, and all of the incredible experiences we've had.

But, I know I'll return. Who knows, maybe by then I'll even speak Spanish?

Riley

Friday, February 17, 2012

The End Result

Torres Del Paine: The Circuit

As Riley mentioned, we had a plan.
As Riley predicted, things didn't go quite according to plan.

According to plan:
We hiked many kilometers.
We were tired at the end of each day.
We were ready to sleep as soon as our heads hit the ground.
We ate all of our food minus 2 unripe pears and a packet of Sprim.
We saw incredible landscapes.
Riley saw Guanacos (similar to a Llama) for the first time.
We had a memorable Valentine's Day.
We enjoyed ourselves immensely.

Not according to plan:
We started hiking at 12:00pm the first day.
We didn't bring sufficient money.
Mosquito attack at camp uno.
Blisters/inadequate footwear.
Need to leave park by mid-afternoon on 16th.
Total hiking hours: 21 hours
Total time in the park: 49 hours
Total Kilometers: ~70km
We took a boat to complete the final leg of the journey.

To Sum Up


February 14, 2012 Valentine's Day

riley walks
The hike begins.

holding hands
Another year together on the trail.

cait yogurt
Lunch.

río valley
Patagonian river valleys.

first camp
Camp uno: Lago Dickson.

cait tarp
Our home.

washing feet
Washing feet after 30 km in running flats.

Feburary 15, 2012 A Full Day of Hiking

pass flags
The pass looking toward Glacier Grey.

cait and riley gray
The duo up top.

cait tests ladder
Very reliable trail systems.

cait
Smiling though tired.


riley eats manjar cookie
Dessert: chocolate cookie with manjar...mmm.

February 16, 2012 Unknowns

lenga
The majority of the forest in the park consist of this tree called Lenga.

calafate
Calafate. Eat this and legend says that you will return to Patagonia.

glacier gray shot
Stunning views of glacier grey as we made our way out.

burn zone
Hiking through burn zones from unfortunate, recent fires.

shoes
The culprits for most of our trials over the last two days (mine anyways).

guanaco
Guanaco.

ride out view
View from the boat ride out.

That's all folks!

We consider ourselves lucky to have had the opportunity to see this place and hope to get back down here someday!

Cait

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

The Attempt

In less than an hour, Caitlin and I will catch our final bus north to Torres del Paine. Our plan? Complete the Torres del Paine "Circuit" in three days.

The Circuit is 100 km in length and circumnavigates the entire Torres massif (a section of the earth's crust that is separated by faults or flexures). Assuming all goes as planned, we'll have the opportunity to view the Torres from every angle. The majority of the travel agencies around the area advise visitors to set aside 6 to 9 days to complete The Circuit. Will everything go as planned? Most likely not. But, we're still confident we'll be able to persevere. After all, isn't this what we do for a living?

Our preparation has been broken into three different segments.

Step One: Trail Food
Step Two: Body Food
Step Three: Packing Food

To accomplish step one, last night we left Hostel Natural in an absolute downpour and began the hunt for trail treats. Two stops occurred. The first was at a shop called, "The Dried Fruit Guy." No explanation needed. Stop two was at a local supermarket. Again, no explanation needed. What did we end up with?

Edibles
Yum-a-dum-dum! Tortillas, Bread, Gorp, Yogurt, Manjar, Crackers, Sprim (Tang), Marshmallows, Sugar Peanuts, Dried Pineapple, Red Wine, Pickles, Pears, Apples, Oranges, Dried Strawberries, Dried Mango, Chocolate, Tuna, Squid, Salami, Mozzarella, Gouda, Cookies, Dried Orange, Soup, Skittles, Jam, Dried Cranberries, Potato Chips, Croutons, and Granola Bars.

If this looks like a mess of junk food... There are two reasons for it. One, we're not bringing a stove. Two, it is. We just finished a 32-day mountaineering course. Our metabolisms are running the rate of an adolescent boy's. We need carbs, we need fats, we need proteins, and we need simple sugars. It should also be noted that this collection of food was done in the same manner my roommate Adam and I used to shop during our undergraduate studies. Go the the grocery store with no plan, walk up and down every aisle from end to end, fill your cart or basket, check out, and finally, relish in whatever you deemed to be a worthy purchase.

After tracking down our "expedition rations" (technical term, we know) we walked onward to Mesita Grande, a local wood-fired pizza place. Here we did one last bodily stocking of food. We each had a wonderful microbrew, split a salad, ate a whole slew of pizza, and finally, savored a delicious dessert with either an espresso or tea. Qué bueno.

Cerveza
Caitlin, via the handle of her mug, enjoying the amazing atmosphere of Mesita Grande.

After a brisk walk back to our hostel, our evening closed with step three, the packing of food. Our bags are light and that's exciting. I'm not afraid to admit it... It's about damn time. We're both quite excited to carry little, move quickly, and smile a lot.

Next stop, Torres del Paine.

Riley

Oh... I nearly forgot. Happy Valentine's Day world!

Monday, February 13, 2012

Futbol Finale

Futbol

Olé! A couple of nights ago, a collection of folks from the NOLS campo piled into vehicles, headed into Coyhaique, and had ourselves a nice little fútbol match. A 6 vs. 6 match, it was, as they say, on. The line-up? In-town staff versus instructors.

How did it go? We’ve been down here for over five months now. Over three of those five have been spent slogging along with a heavy backpack at what has been appropriately termed “student pace.” Let’s just say that my fast-twitch muscles aren’t what they used to be. Three days later I’m, I’ll admit, still a bit sore. Regardless, it was an absolute blast.

For me, the funnest part of the whole experience was the opportunity to spend one more fun-filled hour with eleven amazing people.

As our South American days dwindle, Caitlin put it perfectly as we pulled up to the gym, “I would have been really disappointed if we came all the way down here and didn’t play soccer at least once.”

Riley

Course Three Of Three Concludes

February 11, 2012

Hola people! We’re back! Our group, Los Chunchos (pygmy owl) had a fantastic month in the Cerro Colmillo area. The route we pursued was challenging, exploratory, and wonderfully diverse. Here are some snap shots from our experience.

Rio

Caitlin and four students at battle with the Rio Engaño. This was day three!

Snow School

Snow School! Caitlin demonstrating proper technique for kicking steps in steep snow.

Glacier

Ten of our fifteen participants making their way through the glacial maze. The rock buttress at upper right would become our high camp.

Alpenglow

After teaching glacial travel skills we decided it was time to climb. Our objective? The unnamed peak on the right. Spectacular alpenglow (when the sun is just below the horizon, a red glowing, band appears).

Summit!

Success! KG, Caitlin, and I on the summit. Our route provided students with a great mix of terrain including steep snow, rock, and clipping through pieces of protection placed in areas of higher consequence. With such an amazing weather window, we decided we’d attempt Cerro Colmillo, the area’s highest point, the following day.

Tent

But… A storm moved in. We spent six days tent bound due to poor visibility, high winds, and continuous snow fall. Each evening we were optimistic the storm would pass. It never did. In the end, we left our high camp in a whiteout and humbly descended to the trees.

Waterfall

Our descent brought us to a beautiful lake, 1000 meters below where we’d just cowered. The lake cascaded onto this slick rock slab before a series of steep, slick rock tiers took the waters to the valley floor.

The culmination of this course brings our field time in Patagonia to a close. The past five months have been incredible. The terrain, unparallelled. The culture, inspiring. The people, generous beyond belief. I honestly never thought I’d have the opportunity to spend time in this part of the world and won’t soon forget the amazing experiences I’ve been so fortunate to have.

Tomorrow we’ll fly south to Punta Arenas and take a bus to Puerto Natales to cast our eyes upon Parque Nacional Torres del Paine and hopefully visit an island that is home to over 10,000 penguin couples. Our time down here officially ends on February 19th when we’ll start our 24 hour journey back to the United States.

Here’s to living in the moment.

Riley

Vamos A Cerro Colmillo

January 5, 2012

Cerro Colmillo

On Saturday, Caitlin and I will embark on our third and final Patagonian mountaineering expedition. For 30 days, along with our co-instructor, KG, and 12 students, we will explore the area surrounding Cerro Colmillo. Here are a couple of fun facts!

Cerro Colmillo, with a latitude of 45° 27’ 0” and a longitude of 71° 52’ 60”, is a hypsographic (mountain) located in the area / state of Aisen del General in Chile.

The 100 square kilometer area surrounding Cerro Colmillo has an approximate population of 0.000458 persons per square meter.

Hmm… I think our addition of 15 will no doubt impact that figure. What we’ll accomplish, as learned on our past courses, is very much in the hands of Mother Nature. I wonder what we’ll be dealt?

Riley

Don't Forget To Wipe Your Boots

January 4, 2012

Caitlin and I went for a hike above Campo De NOLS a few days ago to get some exercise, as well as see a bit more of the property. The tábanos (horse flies) were horrendous. Hands down, horrendous. But, it was fun to be out and now offers us the chance to give you a glimpse into where we live when we’re not in the field.

The View
A semi-aerial view of the campo and its surroundings. Not a bad view from the office eh?

Campo
More importantly, here’s the skinny on the campo’s various structures. For reference, Coyhaique (Chile) is 11 km north and Cerro Castillo (Chile) is 88 km south.

La Oficina:
The main office. Where we brief, check e-mail, Skype, etc.

El Quincho: The kitchen. Where we eat when students are in town.

El Mole: The storage space. Where we store and prep gear for courses.

La Cucuracha:
The issue room. Where we outfit ourselves and our students.

El Nido:
The accommodations. Where we lay our heads to rest.

Casa Comun: The commons. Where we cook, relax, asado, and socialize.

La Vista:
Additional accommodations. Where the on-campo staff lay their heads to rest.

I hope you’ve enjoyed the tour… Check back soon for where we’ll be living for the next month!

Riley

Step Aside 2011

December 31, 2011

2011 - 2012
2012… Watch Out!

Llegamos Al Campo

 December 30, 2011

plane sunset

After a flight to Santiago, Chile, a 12-hour layover at the Diego de Almargo airport hotel, and two more flights to get us south…we are back at the NOLS branch!

It has been a great three weeks of traveling though we are ready for a few days of familiarity and down time before the work begins!

Cait

All Hail To The Armenian Cultural Association

December 29, 2011

Thanks to the local presence of Armenians in the Palermo Viejo neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Riley and I had the pleasure of eating at a wonderful Greek Restaurant last night. With only a handful of restaurants sprinkled around the city that represent the eastern european to asian palates, the simple label attached to each of these varied cuisines is “comida oriente.” Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised when we looked at the menu and saw “humus” and “taboule” and “falafel!” What a treat!



Not only was the food delicious, but it was by far the most reasonably priced meal we have had in the city. Twenty five big ones for the two of us…and Riley counts as more than one. We shared smaller plates of humus, taboule, falafel, and amenian cheese, all of which was complemented with homemade pita bread. Following round one of “picadas,” Riley then had a tasty rice dish with toasted almonds and golden raisins. A wonderful dinner to bring our time in Buenos Aires to a close.

Hasta Luego Atlantic

December 28, 2011

We feel so fortunate to have had the opportunity to spend the Christmas holiday in such a beautiful place and I personally won’t soon forget the ear-to-ear grins Caitlin and I both had while body surfing.

It was everything a beach vacation should be. Hot. Salty. Sandy. Relaxing. And, as we climbed aboard our bus yesterday, I certainly paused briefly to knock off any remaining sand and have one more deep breath of the Atlantic’s salty air.

Christmas Day!
Presently, we’re back in Buenos Aires where we’re about to spend our final night in Argentina (we fly to Santaigo, Chile tomorrow evening). It’s hot. Not beach hot, concrete jungle hot. And, while it doesn’t hold the same natural splendor as Pinamar, it’s an entertaining place to explore.

Buenos Aires
This is one of the most popular photography locations in Buenos Aires. Fully embracing the natural tourist in us all, here’s to future adventures and endeavors.

Riley

Feliz Navidad!

December 25, 2011

Twas The Night Before Christmas

December 24, 2011

Gringo Futbol
and some Gringos were posing with a soccer ball on the beach?

Yes. Yes, we were.

U-Turn

December 23, 2011

Now where were we? Ah yes, Caitlin left us at, “Tomorrow it is back to Buenos Aires!”And to Buenos Aires we went!

After another amazing breakfast at casa de Sheraton, we set off for the Iguazu Airport. We arrived to long lines being processed by very few employees which left people on edge. We had plenty of time and luckily didn’t have that added stress. The only difficult part of our airport experience came from a gentleman in line behind us, from the United States, who felt it his duty to complain and criticize the airport from everything to the lines to the inefficiency to the “way things wouldn’t be run like this back home.” The more he spoke, the more worked up and intense his comments became. It was a test of patience to keep my mouth shut and not ask him to “please, take a deep breath and let it go, they’re not going to leave without us.” Oh, I should also mention he was on our flight and was under no time crunch as well!

Our flight went off without a hitch. Smooth take off to smooth landing. Once we were back in the hustle and bustle of the city, we caught a city bus to Palermo and checked into the Blue Soho Hotel for the evening. After a quick siesta we set out on foot to accomplish a few unfinished errands.

We visited an amazing paper store. Papelera Palermo

We ate some delicious tacos at La Fabrica Del Taco.

Lucha Libre!
The lucha libres who watch over all taco consumers…

The final errand of the evening found us at Patagonia Buenos Aires in search of a new swim suit for Caitlin. Not only did we not find one, unfortunately, but the employees of the store were far from friendly. That was unexpected.

The following morning it was off to the buses once again! With traffic in full force we caught a taxi to maneuver us through the city streets until we were within a walking distance of the Buenos Aires Omnibus Terminal. For the final few blocks of our bus-bound pursuit we ran the gauntlet through a sea of street vendors until walking through the majestic double doors of the terminal.

Buenos Aires Omnibus Terminal
This place is a zoo! But, the people watching? Oh… So good!

We quickly found our double-decker bus, climbed aboard and into the upper level, and set off for a six hour ride to Pinamar, Argentina.

As we sauntered south, it began to rain and in lieu of minimal visibility we pulled out laptops and embarked on two separate cinematic endeavors. Round one, All The Pretty Horses, based on the novel by Cormac McCarthy. I highly recommend this book, as well as the movie. Round two, Soul Surfer, based on the true story of Bethany Hamilton, a thirteen-year-old girl who lost her arm in a shark attack. Hamilton’s story is inspiring but the movie is not recommended.

A little past 9:00 p.m. our bus rolled into Pinamar and we caught our final taxi to Hotel Mojomar, where we’ll be based for our entire time while here. Once we’d entered our room we didn’t hesitate a moment to completely move in. We’ve been living a day here and a day there and knowing we’d be here for five days brought forth a domestic nature within us.

After walking to a nearby restaurant and eating some wonderful homemade, spinach-stuffed ravioli we returned to our room, eager to turn in for the evening. Here, uneventful became… eventful. In an attempt to ventilate our room (we don’t have air conditioning) we fired up our ceiling fan only to hear a repetitious “click, cluck, click, cluck”. After multiple attempts to rectify what I’ll call our “situation” we gave in and set forth into a night filled with horse trot sounds.

In the morning, a little dreary eyed but running on the excitement of seeing the beach… We began with what seems will be our routine for days to come. After deciding we were presentable enough for the public, we headed downstairs for breakfast. And oh how wonderful our breakfasts will be! Media lunas (croissants), fruit salad, toast, cereal, orange juice, coffee, and an assortment of other accoutrements. Currently, I’m at a six-media-luna intake per morning and I love it.

Which brings us to… The beach! Yesterday we ran a couple of necessary errands (a new swim suit and a soccer ball), walked down to where the beach began, pulled off our flip flops, and dug our toes into the sands of Pinamar.

Pinamar
Pinamar’s beach to the Atlantic, looking east. It runs as far as the eye can see!

The Beach!
Even though we both miss our family and friends, this isn’t a bad place to celebrate our first Christmas together! Though, I wouldn’t mind a little snow!

Riley